An account of our "Around Mull" cruise from Guest, Chris Brock

Having travelled up to Oban from Norfolk, I was eagerly awaiting my second cruise with The Majestic Line. I met up with Ray and Carole Herbert, who I had met on my first cruise in 2013, and we had agreed to stay at the same B&B in Oban. There we met Tom, an elderly gentleman who was a veteran of Majestic Line cruises. He would be on the same cruise as ourselves. In the evening we ate at EE Usk, a highly rated local fish food restaurant on the quayside, and could see the Glen Tarsan and Massan at anchor. On the Saturday morning we went into Oban, and by nowThe Glen Tarsan was moored on the quay. There we met our convivial captain Iain, who kindly informed us we could bring our luggage down to the quayside early and the crew would put it on board for us. Around 3pm we went down to the meeting point, and started meeting up with our fellow travellers, before transferring to the Tarsan, and having our welcome aboard toast, meeting our crew, Iain the skipper, Gavin the engineer, Stephen the bosun, and Mike the chef. We set sail, started to get to know one another, and departed for Mull via the Sound of Kerrera, heading for Loch Spelve, our first overnight stop.

After we anchored, we had our canapés at 7pm followed by a delightful meal, which is a feature each evening.On the Sunday, following breakfast, we departed for Duart Castle. We arrived at Duart castle, and landed, spending a good couple of hours exploring. In the afternoon we set off for Tobermory, arriving in fine rain, but that did not deter us from landing and having a look around. On Monday morning we landed there again, finding a few place to explore. On our way in from the Tarsan, we passed the Shag colony in the sea wall, and had good views of these small divers.

Departing Tobermory we rounded the most northerly point of Ardmore Point being treated to the pelagic Manx Shearwaters on the way, before arriving on Lunga, largest of the Treshnish Isles, around 2pm. We spent a good hour walking amongst Puffins, Razorbills and watching Fulmars nesting. This was an ideal photo stop as the Puffins were so close, that even telephoto lenses were not needed. Leaving Lunga we set sail for our first attempt at Fingal's cave on Staffa. Sadly, on this and the following attempt we couldn't get in due to the onshore seas,however, it was a great treat to see what has recently been rated as one of the 7 natural wonders of the Commonwealth (BBC Sunday 20th July). Later on the Monday we anchored off Inch Kenneth, where stayed for the evening, being treated to Otters playing on the rocks, and Highland Cattle on the fore shore. Tuesday we landed on Inch Kenneth, the home of the Mitford family earlier in the 20th century. While we were there the sun shone as we explored the chapel and the decaying farm, before setting sail for Iona, where we landed after lunch. Some went off to explore the abbey, others went looking for Corncrakes (heard but not seen!), others just chilled!
It was a beautiful sunny afternoon on an idyllic, peaceful island. As we were not being picked up until 5.30 we were able to experience the peace of Iona without the hundreds of tourist around, a stunning and beautiful island. Iain then guided the boat around to Bunessan, where we anchored, ate, at enjoyed the most perfect sunset. On the Wednesday, we moved up to the island of Gometra, where we had a short walk,
explored the bothy and Thunderbox number 10, then back to the boat for lunch. In the afternoon, Iain sailed around Ulva to the ferry. Stephen and I decided to hike the six miles around Ulva. We had grand views of deer on the hill tops, and all around looking back towards Mull. We were treated to fields of Blue bells, as well as seeing how the island is being cleared of forestry to allow it back to its natural state. On Thursday we sailed for Calgary Bay, a lovely remote bay, and although the weather was not so good, we all had a great time, before sailing for our last night near Loch Aline.

We had stunning views of a Sea Eagle as we passed Grass Point, with Iain slowing the boat right up, so we got a good look.The Majestic Line provides superb holidays. The crews are delightful, and can't do enough to make the stay memorable and happy. Each night Chef serves up top quality, local food, brought to us by the crew. We were also fortunate to have Tom with us, who knew so much Scottish history, and regaled us with tales of his life. For a truly relaxing holiday, the Majestic Line really knows how to do it, that's why I have already booked for 2015!

Chris Brock July 2014

The Isle of Ulva and the "Father of Australia"

This post is inspired by a comment about the connection between Lachlan Macquarie and the Isles of Ulva and Mull in the Hebrides provided by one of our Australian Guests who recently cruised with us.

“We did not know that our famous New South Wales Governor Lachlan Macquarie was born on Ulva, until we arrived near Ulva. We did not find out that he and his family are buried on Mull, until reading this after we got home. Governor Macquarie is a very famous part of our history and there are lots of place names around New South Wales that are named after him. We also have a lovely waterfront point in our Sydney Botanic Gardens named Mrs Macquarie's Chair because she apparently sat there quite often to relax and watch the activity on the harbour. Coincidentally, through my work I am managing two of our premium Sydney buildings, one of which is named Governor Macquarie Tower. It is built on the site of the original government house that Macquarie would have occupied. I'm sure lots of Aussie guests would love to visit Macquarie's birthplace and perhaps his grave. You may of course know all of this history already so forgive us if we are repeating stuff you already use in your guest commentary.”

Here at The Majestic Line, we have to hold our hands up and say that although we knew about the link between the Isles of Ulva and Mull and Lachlan Macquarie we hadn’t thought to highlight this to our Australian guests. The achievements  and character of Lachlan Macquarie were immense; he was the first Governor of New South Wales and known as the “Father of Australia”, no less.  Ulva is a tiny, privately owned idyllic island lying just off the coast of Mull in the Inner Hebrides. The connection between these Isles and Lachlan Macquarie is an inspirational and poignant story.

Born in 1762 on the Isle of Ulva, Lachlan Macquarie left his Hebrides home as a young lad: he enroled in the American War of Independence aged 15.  Lachlan was descended from the Scottish Highland family clan MacQuarrie which possessed Ulva, Staffa, and a region of the Isle of Mull for over one thousand years, and his forebears were buried on Iona. His impressive military career lasted over 30 years and took him to many corners of the globe.  But his early life was tinged with tragedy; the death of his first wife of tuberculosis after only three years of marriage left him depressed and he returned to Mull.  There he met Elizabeth Campbell, who in 1807 became his second wife. Macquarie was soon after offered the position of Governor of New South Wales by the British Crown and he went back to Australia in 1809.

His legacy is inspirational and is credited for shaping modern Australia.  As Governor he set about transforming a society that was starving, with no proper infrastructure or community values. Critically he identified the importance of education in building a nation. He created an environment in which commerce and manufacturing could flourish introducing coinage and establishing the colony’s first bank “The Bank of New South Wales” in 1817.  One of his main priorities was public health, very aware of the link between poverty, disadvantage, sickness and crime.  Many believe that it was Macquarie’s example of tolerance and humanity that set the spirit of egalitarianism and sense of fair play that is considered a defining characteristic of the Australian people today.

Lachlan Macquarie retired as Governor in 1822 and died in London 1824 while defending himself against  Commissioner J.T Bigge's damning report on his administration which Bigge felt was too liberal. But Macquarie’s reputation continued to grow after his death and today he is regarded by many as the most enlightened and progressive of the early Governors who sought to establish Australia as a country, rather than as a prison camp

Macquarie was buried with his wife and son on the Isle of Mull in a remote mausoleum which is maintained by the National Trust of Australia and is inscribed "The Father of Australia". Macquarie formally adopted the name Australia for the continent, the name earlier proposed by the first circumnavigator of Australia, Matthew Flinders. As well as the many geographical features named after him in his lifetime, he is commemorated by Macquarie University in Sydney.  More information on the Ulva link can be found here> and click here for information on the Macquarie Mausoleum on Mull.