Around Mull Wildlife Cruise September 2013

Guest Blog from Margaret Matthew

The Majestic Line invited Matt Oliver, an ecologist and friend of the Majestic Line owners, on board as an extra pair of eyes to help spot the wildlife on this Around Mull cruise as part of VisitScotlands "Year of Natural Scotland". As Matt’s mum I took advantage of the spare bed in the twin cabin and offered to do a write-up of the cruise and wildlife seen.  The Skipper of the Glen Massan, Martin, has an excellent eye for identifying wildlife and the Engineer Alistair is an environmental biologist so has in-depth knowledge; however as they are often busy with their crewing duties, this was an opportunity for some additional dedicated spotting.  


The more common birds were seen on a daily basis; oystercatchers, cormorants, shags, gannets, guillemots and razorbills and of course every bay had its heron!  Also regularly seen were the gulls; kittiwakes, herring, common, lesser black-backed and great black-backed.

Having had generally an excellent season of weather so far, we were unlucky to choose a date when the forecast was to be very windy and we were warned that our vessel would explore the sheltered Sound of Mull for a day or two. The other Majestic Line Vessel, the Glen Tarsan which was supposed to be bound for Skye was in the same position therefore we travelled in convoy to sheltered Loch a Choire on Ardnamurchan where we spent the night.  There were many Gannets, Shags and Cormorants to be seen, which the crew clearly took for granted, but for many of us the close view of diving Gannets was a real spectacle and we were also pleased to have the difference between Shags and Cormorants explained by Matt so that we could identify each species with certainty.  The anchorage was very pretty and I quickly discovered that in this part of the world, wherever you find yourself you will not be disappointed.

Our first dinner on board from Chef Michael was Monkfish and Scallops in Saffron Sauce which was absolutely delicious and set the standard for the rest of the week.  Over dinner I discovered that our group was going to be tremendous fun – with a lot of lighthearted banter already the order of the day between guests and crew. The cheese board was quirkily presented by the multi –talented Alistair which would build up throughout the week to the cheeseboard finale as part of Thursday night dinner.

On the Sunday morning we crossed the Sound of Mull to Duart Bay, going ashore at Duart Castle to visit the historic seat of the Clan Maclean.  Some of us took a walk to the shore (learning a valuable lesson from Alistair on how to walk safely on seaweed!) and saw a pod of Porpoise in the tidal runs around the castle and a far sighting of a White-Tailed Eagle getting mobbed by Gulls. We also identified several wild flowers including the beautiful Grass of Parnassus which was a feature on many of our walks.  Following lunch at anchor, we cruised to Tobermory.  Although the rain had set in we went ashore for a lovely walk through the woodlands at Aros Park, with a series of waterfalls made more spectacular by the recent rain. The weather was not encouraging for wildlife with a mixed flock of Tits (including Long Tailed Tits) the only birds seen. During the transfer by tender back to our vessel we visited the Shag colony at the Tobermory Bay waterfall where it is possible to get very close to the birds and also view the paintings on the rocks produced by sailors in past times when they stocked up on fresh water from the waterfall.

On the Monday we woke to a warm, windless day but with more rain.  We went ashore again to the town of Tobermory with its brightly painted houses and stocked up essentials such as chocolate from the chocolate shop, visiting the many arts and craft shops and the Museum.  Some guests visited the outdoor shop to ensure they had proper wet weather protection (thereby ensuring that the weather would  improve for the rest of the week, which of course it did).  I noticed that the outdoor shop also sold Kaftans and wondered if this was where Emma Thompson sourced her “job lot” (in a comment in her cruise review) joking that after a week of delicious food on board, no-one could do up their trousers. After lunch we cruised the length of Loch Sunart, going ashore at Salen for a walk in the Oakwoods.  The path was lined with wild flowers – sheep’s bit scabious, purple heather and yellow loosestrife as well as many types of fungi.  No birds or animals were venturing out although Matt identified Pine Marten poo (scat)which was bright purple from the bramble berries eaten so we at least knew they were around.

We anchored for the night off Strontian on the coast of Ardnamurchan and as both boats were still travelling together, The Glen Tarsan hosted a cocktail party with canapés for both boats which was excellent fun. Back on board, dinner was the most delicious halibut stuffed with spinach.

Having been assured by the crew that it never rains for more than two days in any week, we woke to clear skies and a sighting of an otter before breakfast, a large male, fishing around the boat.  Following an onshore walk, (where more Pine Marten poo was identified, this time red with rowan berries!) we cruised back up Loch Sunart, spotting a Goosander,  Golden Eagles over Ben Resipole, a Great Skua and a flock of Manx Shearwaters skimming the waves.  While anchored for lunch we had our first close sighting of a White Tailed Eagle, with its markings clearly seen and remaining overhead for a satisfactory amount of time. Interestingly, while we cruised we saw some unusual domestic animals - a herd of red deer, all stags, within the gardens of a mansion house and some white-faced black sheep (as opposed to the more normal black faced white sheep!)

By Tuesday morning, guests had all got to know each other pretty well and there were now competitions running for the worst and best joke of the week – worst joke having many more contenders.  Stephen the Bosun was competing for crew stand-up with  Engineer Alistair with Michael the Chef appearing “from the wings” of his tiny galley every so often with a classic one-liner.  The weather had improved but more wind was forecast and Skipper Martin presented us with a choice – to “poke our nose out” and try to get around the top of Mull and onward to the Treshnish Isles and Loch na Keal or to explore Loch Linnhe and Glencoe which was much more sheltered.  I was very keen to go around the top as there had been a sighting of a group of Basking Sharks off Calgary Bay which we would pass.  Both Skippers made the decision to go around the top and we would anchor between the Islands of Ulva and Gometra in Loch na Keal for the night.  We were warned that the cruise would be “bumpy” and as a precaution some of the indoor and outdoor deck furniture was secured. 

Personally, I really enjoyed the ride of around 1.5 hours, finding the rougher waters quite exhilarating, and a taste of the real Hebrides, but with the knowledge that I was in safe hands.  Three of our group were not so comfortable but coped bravely. We learned that The Basking Sharks had moved to the coast of Ardnamurchan but we had excellent views of the Treshnish Isles and Staffa and even clear views of the “Paps” of Jura. As we approached Ulva we passed Grey and Common Seals on the rocks, with three White Tailed Eagles overhead.  Once anchored, a disturbance on the water indicated a shoal of Mackerel were present with both crew and guests fishing with much success.  We could clearly view the Feral Goats and Red Deer on the hillsides of the Islands.  Later I discovered that a pod of 12 Dolphins were seen in Duart Bay on the Tuesday evening, which we might have seen if we had gone for the other option but hey-ho there were treats in store for us too!

On the Wednesday morning we went ashore for a walk on Gometra and had and excellent view of a juvenile White Tailed Eagle directly overhead.   We also spotted a Kestrel and Peregrine Falcon as well as more Feral Goats and Red Deer.  Two juvenile Kestrels were involved in a spectacular aerobatic chase and we had an excellent close view of a large Grey Seal hunting below us among the breakers in the bay.

Back on board it was a case of battening down the hatches for the journey back to the sheltered Sound of Mull with a force 6 gale on our tail.  The only wildlife spotted was a solitary Porpoise.  Once round the point, things quietened down quickly and we stopped over near Dervaig for lunch and then on to beautiful Loch Drumbuie on Loch Sunart for the night.  That evening our vessel returned the compliment and hosted cocktails and canapés for the Glen Tarsan guests, with our ship-caught Mackerel featuring highly, and exchanging views on the drama of the recent journey.  That evening, Chef Michael excelled himself again with a main course of Sea Bass with Asparagus Bundle and Mornay Sauce.  (I mention the fish dishes it’s because fish is my favourite – we also had excellent meals of Argyll Lamb and Beef and superb lunches and breakfasts!)

On our final full day we woke to the most beautiful weather – not a breath of wind and warm and sunny; it was a truly idyllic day.  A few of us took up the offer of a six mile walk on Morvern.  Engineer Alistair came onshore for a while to forage for Chanterelles and give us the benefit of his knowledge of local plant life, which is extensive.  The walk was truly spectacular, providing fabulous views of Loch Sunart and beyond.  We enjoyed spotting flowers and lots of fungi and butterflies on the way, meeting a herd of Red Deer and a herd of Highland Cows!  We had a terrific view of a Golden Eagle which made our day.  As we approached Driminish, one of our group spotted a Shrew in a bramble bush.  On closer inspection, it was trapped in the thorns and we were pleased we managed to free it with only a couple of nips on our fingers for our trouble.  Back on board, we discovered the other half of our group had been sunning themselves on deck and had enjoyed the company of Porpoises from Loch Sunart to the Sound of Mull.  We then set sail for Loch Spelve on the Mull coastline and a wonderful sunny walk in the ancient Oakwoods there with again lots of fungi in evidence.

On our final evening before dinner, Alistair provided a tour of the engine room and then we were served champagne to celebrate the 35 wedding anniversary of one of the couples on board.  After dinner, guests were treated to Alistair’s final cheese board with a general assessment on the weeks offerings. It was agreed that the Biggar Blue was the big failing with Lanark Blue splitting the guests who either loved it or hated it. Out and out favourites were Kintyre Cheddar and Strathdon Blue and my own personal favourite was Reblochon (Alistair did allow some non-Scottish cheeses on his cheese board!) Later we all enjoyed  a sing-a-long led by Stephen and Alistair with guests joining in.  On the Friday morning after another excellent breakfast, we had  a serene sail to Oban with another Porpoise spotted and many juvenile Black Guillemots on the water.  We then got ready to disembark at 10.30am on a glorious sunny day, very jealous of the guests who would take our place!  With much thanks to our excellent multi-talented crew who provided an outstanding, unforgettable week.